Maybe it’s a side effect of growing up in the prairies, where winter temperatures can range from -5 to -30 and the wind chill can literally kill you, but I’ve never been a huge fan of the snowy season.
However, I’ve stood firm on the belief that I could learn to love winter if temperatures were just moderately cold instead of extreme, and there were fun activities to look forward to.
Five days in Québec would prove this hunch right because let me tell you — the Québecois are doing winter right, with unique dining experiences, winter activities, and of course, the Carnaval de Québec.
It was also amazing to experience the sort of getaways and vacations that are available right here in Canada. I don’t know, there’s just something fueling my desire to keep my travel within this beautiful country.
Prêt? Here’s how I made the most out of an unforgettable winter trip to Quebec.
Day One — An entertaining arrival
Kendall Bistretzan/Daily Hive
The day started at Brasseur de Montréal, where my tour group and I feasted on smoked meat sandwiches and poutine. Partnering with Prod.G, this pub gives talented circus performers a place to practice, so while we ate, a gentleman performed various splits, handstands, and hoola-hoop feats just a few feet away. Talk about dinner and a show!
Next, we headed to Ribotti Vintage for appointments to be styled in vintage snowsuits. I went first and immediately fell in love with a blue, pink, and yellow one-piece unit that fit like it was made for me. It was a no-brainer to say yes to the dress. Er… snowsuit.
After a delicious dinner at Romies Restaurant (Pro tip: Order a bunch of plates to share with your table, because the food is way too good to not try a bit of everything!), we donned our rented snowsuits and headed to Igloofest.
Kendall Bistretzan/Daily Hive
Renowned worldwide, Igloofest is an EDM music festival meant to pump some heat back into winter, and it’s not unusual to see people in retro, creative, or just plain bizarre outerwear. Naturally, we fit in splendidly, and the snowsuits were so warm that I forgot I was outside. It was a night of warm drinks, captivating pop-ups, and of course, non-stop dancing!
Day Two — Embracing the environment & exploring Montreal
On Day Two, our outdoor endurance would be put to the test. We ventured to Parc Jean-Drapeau, an outdoor park and rental facility with all sorts of activities. We tried our hands at snowshoeing, and thanks to the previous days’ heavy snowfall, the paths were perfectly untouched. It was a real workout!
From there we went to Terrasse Belvu hors-piste at the Montréal Marriott Château Champlain for an apres ski happy hour, minus the actual skiing. Cozy fireplaces, an abundance of blankets, and a curated menu certainly met the vibe check, and a maple whiskey and Baileys-spiked coffee was the perfect pick-me-up.
Kendall Bistretzan/Daily Hive
The sun was setting, but our evening had just begun. Following happy hour, we headed to Montréal’s entertainment district, which is the largest of its kind in North America (including Broadway).
We saw exhibits from Lumino, a series of interactive artistic creations that capture the beauty of winter in Montreal and were even so lucky to be joined by artist Alejandro Figueroa, who provided a first-hand description of his art and the inspiration behind it.
Kendall Bistretzan/Daily Hive
Finally, we ended our night with the most delectable cheese and fondue served in an outdoor dome at Auberge Saint-Gabriel. Is there a better way to end a day outdoors than with wine, bread, and cheese? Je ne pense pas!
Day Three — A night at the Ice Hotel
Next stop, Québec City! If I thought Montréal was a winter wonderland, I was about to be blown away by a night at the Hôtel de Glace.
Kendall Bistretzan/Daily Hive
The Hôtel de Glace is a hotel made of ice, and there are only four in the world! Construction begins once temperatures get below zero for a few days, and the design differs each year. The moulds for the hotel take around seven weeks to build, with 35 to 50 people working non-stop at any given time. The result isn’t just a hotel — it’s a real work of art.
After cocktails served in an ice glass (staff make around 200 per day!), we attended the Québec Winter Carnaval Night Parade. It’s been a hot minute since I’ve been to a parade, but this one completely blew me away. There were dancers, singers, elaborate costumes, stunt performers, and the most gorgeously-designed floats I’ve ever seen.
Next, we enjoyed an extra-special meal upon our return to Hôtel de Glace.
Kendall Bistretzan/Daily Hive
For the first time ever, Hôtel de Glace opened a Nordic-inspired restaurant made of ice with a delicious three-course meal courtesy of Fairmont Le Château Frontenac. Dishes like French onion soup and braised short rib were an exceptional way to warm up and were prepared in a mobile kitchen behind the restaurant.
After winding down in the hot tub, it was time for bed. Hôtel de Glace has 30 rooms, many of which were designed to represent the overall theme of the hotel, which for this season, was the four elements. My room was Ocean Rescue-themed, which included a bright orange mattress cover, a bed of ice carved to look like a boat, and waves sculpted into the walls.
Kendall Bistretzan/Daily Hive
Atop my mattress was a sleeping bag meant to withstand temperatures as low as -30 Celsius, though it was only a low of -20 that night. Once I was out, I was out. The silence and cool winter air may as well have been a sleeping spell.
Day Four — Slopes, peaks, and canoe racing
Starting the day with energy from coffee? No, we kicked off Day Four with the adrenaline of tubing down the many paths behind Hotel Valcartier. The layout was just like a ski hill, with tube lifts and colour-coded routes. I laughed. I screamed. I may have fallen off once.
Kendall Bistretzan/Daily Hive
Following a delicious lunch at the historic Bar Artefact, we headed down to the Ferry to watch the ice canoe races. The annual event pays homage to the Indigenous people and French settlers who shuttled the St. Lawrence River in birch canoes to deliver goods, mail, and sometimes people.
Kendall Bistretzan/Daily Hive
Even with modern canoes, the journey is no easy feat — teams row across fast-flowing water, avoid hazards, and often have to exit the canoe to scooter it across large chunks of ice.
Our final stop before dinner was the Strøm spa nordique Vieux-Québec, located along the St. Lawrence River.
Kendall Bistretzan/Daily Hive
The place was a hydration oasis, complete with outdoor whirlpools, hot and cold baths, Finnish saunas, and more. I may or may not have been peer pressured into doing a cold plunge. Maybe it was just the relief of no longer being in 13-degree-celsius water, but I did feel pretty good after!
Day Five — Finishing strong
My last day in Québec would not be an uneventful one. After checking out of the beautiful Hôtel 71, we headed down to the Dufferin Terrace to experience the historic toboggan slide, which was first established in 1884 and can go up to 70 kilometres per hour. It’s beautiful to think about how many people slid down the hill over 140 years, and how what was fun then is still fun now.
Next was the moment I’ve been waiting for since the Carnaval de Québec unit in my elementary school French classes: Meeting Bonhomme. He looks pretty good for 71! We were granted a tour of his palace (constructed of ice, of course) and exchanged a few words with the legend, because yes — he talks! I’m not ashamed to say I was starstruck.
Kendall Bistretzan/Daily Hive
The final item on my Québec itinerary was one last delicious meal, this time, at the restaurant Le Clan. Le Clan’s culinary team makes a point to highlight French cuisine and honour nearby ingredients, such as hand-gathered mushrooms and herbs, locally grown sprouts, and highland cows that are bred on eco-friendly pastures near Québec City.
The gourmet menu was made even more accessible by lunch offerings of $5. This meant I got to try dishes like arctic char, escargot, chicken cordon bleu, and aligot for an incredibly affordable price.
And with that, it was off to the airport, where I would head home with a newfound appreciation for not just winter, but Québec and Francophone culture. My five days were filled with delicious food, exhilarating outdoor activities, and a glimpse of what makes winter in Québec so special.
I can’t recommend visiting Montréal and Québec City enough, I’ve already downloaded Duolingo to improve my French and visit again soon.
The author of this article was hosted by Bonjour Quebec and Tourisme Montreal. Plan your visit and experience the true magic of winter in Quebec for yourself.